D) Read TEXT B Daytime Formal Wear.

As the costume historian James Laver has pointed out, since the eighteenth century, all attempts to introduce color to male formal attire have failed or have been derided. A shiny, colorful, patterned male evening ensemble is unthinkable; such is the continuing power and influence of tradition.

Formal daywear is now found primarily in the world of sports, and especially of horse racing and boat racing. Royal Ascot, Goodwood, and Henley are social institutions where formal clothes are demanded and specific dress code requirements are imposed on all who attend.

Formal wear for Royal Ascot would be full morning dress (dove gray or black); the groom or the bride’s father at a formal daytime wedding would wear the same ensemble.

The coat is sometimes referred to as a cutaway coat (being a frock coat with the corners removed), not to be confused with a tailcoat, which is cut to the waist in the front, and has a pair of tails behind. A gray, or for the more fashion conscious, brightly colored and patterned silk waistcoat, is worn beneath and teamed with a tie, cravat, or some other individualistic neck wear—but never a bow-tie.

The origin of formal wear is open to discussion and challenge, but one name forever associated with formality, uniformity, and simplicity was Beau Brummell—king of the dandies and a one-time favorite of King George IV. He is often referred to as the “father of modern male formal costume” as he eschewed the brightly hued silken finery and powdered wigs generally worn at court for a sober suit of midnight blue-black with minimal jewelry (a signet ring was permissible), no wig, no perfume but plenty of shaving and washing—a well-scrubbed appearance being the natural partner to formal dress.

At weddings and funerals, formal clothes were obligatory and many other social situations demanded this “civilian uniform” as a means of maintaining a required ambiance, from balls and tea dances to memorials and visits to the opera. Just a hundred years ago, dressing for dinner in one’s own home could have meant having to wear full formal dress—even if it was just with family members. A visit to almost any vintage clothing fair or market will reveal several yesteryear formal garments for men—a clue as to how vital they were and perhaps how few the occasions for which they are needed in the early 2000s. Perhaps formal wear represents the last bastion of constancy in clothing with a conspiratorial nod to time, not trend.

5. Some useful words and phrases:

1.formal attire – офіційна одежа

2.to deride– висміювати

3.patterned– візерунковий 4.unthinkable– немислимий

5.dress code – дрес-код 6. morning dress – офіційний парадний костюм для ранкового і денного часу, візитка 7.dove gray – сизо-сірий

8.cutaway coat – пальто з розрізом

9.frock coat – сюртук 10.tailcoat– фрак

11.fashion conscious– відчуваючий моду 12.waistcoat– жилет 13.cravat– краватка, шарф

14.bow-tie– краватка-бабочка 15.uniformity– одноманітність 16.signet ring – каблучка-печатка

17.civilian uniform– громадянська уніформа

18.ambiance– обстановка,

e) Read TEXT C DOLCE & GABBANA

Domenico Dolce was born in Polizzi Generosa (near Palermo, Sicily) on 13 September 1958. His family owned a small clothing business, where Domenico worked from childhood. Stefano Gabbana was born in Milan on 14 November 1962. He studied graphics but soon turned to fashion. After a brief period of working as assistant designers, they founded the Dolce & Gabbana label, which had its first runway show as part of the New Talent group in Milan in 1985, upon the invitation of Italian fashion promoter Beppe Modenese.

In 1986 they produced their first collection, called “Real Women.” In 1987 they launched their knitwear line and in 1989 their beachwear and lingerie lines. Beginning in 1988 they produced their ready-to-wear line in Domenico Dolce’s family-owned atelier, located in Legnano, Milan. The first Dolce & Gabbana men’s collection appeared in 1990. In 1994 they launched the D&G label, inspired by street style and a more youthful look.

They introduced a line of eyewear under the Dolce & Gabbana and D&G labels and produced music CDs. In 1996, for their tenth anniversary, they published Ten Years of Dolce & Gabbana, which included their most important advertising images and texts.

In a 1995 interview Dolce and Gabbana recalled their first professional foray into fashion during the Milan collections as eliciting “one of the strongest emotions we have ever experienced”. The show marked the occasion of the birth of the Dolce & Gabbana label, which was destined to play a fundamental role in the history of Italian ready-to-wear. The designers showed full-length garments of stretch jersey, silk jackets, and oversize shirts that could be worn with casual sandals. The collection, characterized by fluidity and difference, soon found an enthusiastic public.

They were not looking for a retro look; however, Dolce & Gabbana turned to the past for innovation. The designers remarked, “We want to use the past to project it into the future”. And making it modern involved the creative use of fabrics and colors, and the ability to blend various sources of inspiration, primarily those whose origins could be traced to the heterogeneous

world of the Mediterranean.

6. Answer the questions:

1) What did the first collections of Dolce & Gabbana deal with?

2) What role did the label Dolce & Gabbana play?

3) What materials did Dolce & Gabbana use in their collections?

4) Why did Dolce & Gabbana turn to the past?

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Read TEXT A. MEN’S FORMAL WEAR	\|	LANGUAGE STUDY

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