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• Товарознавство продовольчих товарів

Shoe uppers

All parts or sections of the shoe above the sole that are stitched or otherwise joined together to become a unit then attached to the insole and outsole. The upper of the shoe consists of the vamp or front of the shoe, the quarter, i.e. the sides and back of the shoe, and the linings. The vamp covers the dorsum of the foot, including the tongue piece, and superior aspects over the toes. This section, i. e. the toe-puff is reinforced which serves to give the shoe its shape as well as protect the toes. The vamp is often made of more than one piece, creating a decorative pattern. There are various vamps suitable for different styles of shoes.

The complete upper part of the shoe behind the vamp line covering the sides and back part is called quarter. The top edge of the sides and back of the quarter describes the topline of the shoe. In athletic shoes the topline is often padded and referred to as a collar. The medial and lateral sections join in a seam at the posterior end of the shoe. In Oxford style lacing shoes, the eyelet section is formed by the superior part of the quarter, while the underlying tongue is a part of the vamp. The heel section of the quarter is frequently reinforced with a stiffener. This helps support the rear foot. In boots the quarter is often referred to as “top”. In the Bal method, the front edges of both quarters are stitched together and covered with the back edge of the vamp. In the Blucher method, the quarter panels are placed on the top of the vamp, and the front edges are not sewn together. In comparison with the Bal method, the Blucher method permits the fitting of a larger foot girth by broadening the throat of the shoe. A convalescent shoe (open to toe) is a variation on the Blucher method in which the lacing extends to the front edge of the vamp. In athletic shoes the vamp and quarter panels are often one piece of nylon or leather with additional leather pieces added to reinforce critical areas of the shoe. Reinforcement added to the region of the medial longitudinal arch is termed the saddle if it is added to the outside of the shoe or the arch bandage if it is added to the inside of the shoe.

The central part of the vamp just proximal to the toe box is the throat. The throat is formed by the seam joining the vamp to the quarter, i. e. throatline. The position of the throat line depends on the construction of the shoe, for example, a shorter vamp and longer quarters define a lower throat line. This gives a wider lower opening for the foot to enter the shoe. The throat is defined by the connection of the rear edge of the vamp and the front part of the quarter. The location of the throat will vary with the design of the shoe. Because the vamp and the quarter panels are often one piece in the athletic shoe, the throat is at the eyestay. This refers to the point where the lacing is attached to the vamp. The throat of the shoe dictates the maximum girth permitted by the shoe.

The counter is the component of the quarter that stabilizes the hind foot in the shoe and retains the shape of the posterior portion of the shoe. Counters are usually made from fiberboard or heat moulded plastic. Foxing is an additional piece of leather that covers the counter externally. Sometimes a counter will extend medially to support the heel and prevent prolonged probation. In some children’s shoes and athletic footwear the stiffener is extended on the medial of the arch to provide an anti-pronatory wedge.

Many shoes incorporate a toecap into the upper of the shoe. Toecaps are either stitched over or completely replace the distal superior aspect of the vamp and can be made into a decorative features referred to as toe tips. The toe box refers to the roofed area over and around the part of the shoe that covers the toes. The function of the toe box is to retain the shape of the forefoot and allow room for the toes. The height and the width of the toe box is dictated by shape of the last used to construct the shoe. Certain types of non-athletic and athletic footgear will offer extra depth in the toe box.

In quality shoes the quarters and vamps are lined to enhance comfort and durability. Linings may consist of various materials i. e. leathers, fabrics and man-made synthetics. The lining on the sole segment is called the sock and may be full-length, three-quarter or just the heel section. Many linings are made of synthetic material and are usually confined to the quarters and the insock.

IV. Answer the questions:

1. What upper parts of a shoe do you know?
2. What do you know about the vamp?
3. What is the quarter?
4. Why is the heel section of the quarter frequently reinforced with a stiffener?
5. What is the throat and what does its position depend on?
6. What is the saddle?
7. What are the functions of the counter?
8. How are the toecaps incorporated into many shoes?
9. What is done to enhance comfort and durability of quality shoes?
10. What is the sock?

V. Complete the sentences with the words from the text:

foxing, eyestay, arch bandage, toe puff, throat, toe box, lining, quarter, broadening, fiberboard

1. The … is usually confined to the quarter and the insock.
2. The function of the … is to retain the shape of the forefoot and allow room for the toes.
3. The … stabilizes the hind foot in the shoe.
4. The … of the shoe dictates the maximum girth permitted by the shoe.
5. … is an additional piece of leather that covers the counter externally.
6. Counters are usually made from or heat moulded plastic.
7. Reinforcement added to the region of the medial longitudinal arch is termed the … … if it is added to the inside of the shoe.
8. The Blucher method permits the fitting of a larger foot girth by … the throat of the shoe.
9. Reinforced … serves to give the shoe its shape as well as protect the toes.
10. The throat is often at the … in the athletic shoe.

VI. Find the English equivalents to the words:

підсилювач, підошва, устілка, додаткова глибина, тканина, віддалений від центру, включати, танкетка, найближчий, надання жорсткості, фібровий картон, берець, союзка, задник, підносок, блочка, задня частина, халявка, верх взуття, зберігати форму

VII. Make up sentences with the terms:

front of the shoe, the sides and back of the shoe, toe-puff, decorative pattern, upper part, topline of the shoe, collar, the eyelet section, stiffener, foot girth, throat, fiberboard, distal superior aspect, sole segment, the Bal method

VIII. Give definitions to the words:

insock, sock, lining, depth, toe box, vamp, toecap, counter, stiffener, eyestay, throat, arch bandage, saddle, convalescent shoe, toe-puff

IX. Translate the sentences into English:

1. Верх взуття складається з союзки, берця та устілки.
2. Підносок зазвичай підсилюється, щоб взуття зберігало форму і захищало пальці.
3. Задник стабілізує задню частину стопи.
4. Виріз союзки формується швом, який з’єднує союзку і берці.
5. Верх багатьох видів взуття включає підносок.
6. Устілки можуть бути шкіряними, синтетичними або з тканини.
7. Виріз союзки зумовлює максимальний обхват ноги.
8. П’яточна частина берця зазвичай підсилюється.
9. Різні стилі взуття потребують різних видів союзок.
10. Берець покриває бокові та задню частини взуття.

X. Speak on the topic using the following words and word-combinations:

attached to the insole and outsole, vamp, to give the shoe its shape, decorative pattern, quarter, collar, eyelet, heel section, the Blucher method, the Bal method, throat, lacing, counter, foxing, to prevent prolonged probation, toecap, comfort and durability

Text B

I. Read and remember:

1. insole – устілка
2. outsole – підошва
3. welting – рант
4. to inhibit – перешкоджати, гальмувати
5. sockliner – устілка
6. friction – тертя, зчеплення
7. gripping – зчеплення, захват
8. ridge – рубчик, товста кромка
9. cavity – порожнина, впадина
10. dampening down impact – знижуючий вплив
11. shank – геленок
12. heel breast – передня частина каблука

II. Read the text and define the main idea of it:

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1. Shoe uppers and soles design

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