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Tailoring Basics

An interfacing is a piece of fabric between the garment and facing. Usually edges and design details such as collars, cuffs, pockets, waist bands, front closing and hems are interfaced. Interfacing helps these areas hold their shape, look crisp and wear longer.

Selecting the right interfacing fabric and interfacing weights should be considered. The three layers should be bent and squeezed. The interfacing should support, lend no overpower the fabric. Edge crispness suited to fabric and design must be selected.

Heat-fused interfacing often becomes slightly firmer after fusing. When deciding between two weights it is usually best to select the lighter of the two weights. Interfacing must be washable if the garment is washable. Interfacing may be hand stitched, machine stitched or fused to the garment.

Reinforcements are used to hold and support areas and points of strain. Methods of reinforcing garments include the use of stabilizing tapes, a second row of stitching 1/8 inch (3mm) from the first, finely stitched seams, thread tacks, buttons and fabric backings. The method of stitching a piece of twill tape into or next to the seam is used on shoulder seams in knits, pocket openings, jacket front seams, collar roll lines, lower armhole seams, waist lines and kimono sleeve seams.

Underlinings have many advantages. They help give a garment an “expensive look”. They build shape and depth into the fabric and design lines. Underlinings support stitching lines, prevent pressmarking and stitch marking and hold loosely woven or stretchy fabric in shape. Hand stitches are attached to underlinings. A firmly woven lightweight fabric should be selected. Some lining fabric can be used for underlinings. It is advisable to underline the main garment pieces: front and back of skirts, pants, jackets, vests, dresses and sleeves. Light coloured and open network fabrics should be checked for colour change. If the colour does change all pieces except facing must be underlined. The fabric and underlining layers are sewn together to firm one piece.

Linings give a finished look to blazers, vests, skirts and pants. A lining is like a second item of clothing on the inside of your garment. A firmly woven slippery lining fabric will hold the garment in shape and allow easy movement to the body.

When using a lining seam finishes are not necessary. Lining hems are sewn to the garment hem or hemmed separately.

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