Glossary

absorbency	The ability of one material to take up another material
aesthetic	In textiles, properties perceived by touch and sight, such as the hand, color, luster, drape, and texture of fabrics or garments.
blend	1. A yarn obtained when two or more staple fibers are combined in a textile process for producing spun yarns (e.g., at opening, carding, or drawing). 2. A fabric that contains a blended yarn (of the same fiber content) in the warp and filling.
blending	The combining of staple fibers of different physical characteristics to assure a uniform distribution of these fibers throughout the yarn.
bonded fabric	A fabric containing two or more layers of cloth joined together with resin, rubber, foam, or adhesive to form one ply
bonding	1. A process for adhesive laminating two or more fabrics or fabric and a layer of plastic foam. There are two methods: the flame method used for bonding foam and the adhesive method used for bonding face and backing fabrics. 2. One of several processes of binding fibers into thin sheets, webs, or battings by means of adhesives, plastics, or cohesion (self-bonding).
cam	A rotating or sliding piece or projection used to impart timed or periodic motion to other parts of a machine. It is used chiefly as a controlling or timing element in machines rather than as part of a power transmission mechanism. Cams are particularly important in both knitting and weaving machinery.
CAD	(Computer-Aided Design) The use of computers to design industrial products
CAM	(Computer-Aided Manufacturing) The use of computers to make industrial product
carding	A process in the manufacture of spun yarns whereby the staple is opened, cleaned, aligned, and formed into a continuous, untwisted strand called a sliver.
CIM	(Computer-Integrated Manufacturing)The manufacturing approach of using computers to control the entire production process
cloth	A generic term embracing all textile fabrics and felts. Cloth may be formed of any textile fibre, wire, or other material, and it includes any pliant fabric woven, knit, felted, needled, sewn, or otherwise formed
CNC	(Computer Numerical Control) Is one in which the functions and motions of a machine tool are controlled by means of a prepared program containing coded alphanumeric data. CNC can control the motions of the workpiece or tool, the input parameters such as feed, depth of cut, speed, and the functions such as turning spindle on/off, turning coolant on/off
coating	The application of a semi-liquid material such as rubber, polyvinyl chloride, or polyurethane to one or both sides of a textile material. Once the coating has been dried (and cured, if necessary), it forms a bond with the fabric
coated fabric	A fabric to which a substance such as lacquer, plastic, resin, rubber, or varnish has been applied in firmly adhering layers to provide certain properties, such as water impermeability.
combing	A step subsequent to carding in cotton and worsted system processing which straightens the fibers and extracts neps, foreign matter, and short fibers. Combing produces a stronger, more even, more compact, finer, smoother yarn.
course	The row of loops or stitches running across a knit fabric, corresponding to the filling in woven fabrics.
crease-resistant	A term used to describe a fabric treated chemically to improve its resistance to and recovery from wrinkling
durability	A relative term for the resistance of a material to loss of physical properties or appearance as a result of wear or dynamic operation.
dye	A substance you use to change the colour of your clothes, hair etc.
dyeing	A process of coloring fibers, yarns, or fabrics with either natural or synthetic dyes.
elasticity	The ability of a strained material to recover its original size and shape immediately after removal of the stress that causes deformation.
fabric	A planar textile structure produces by interlacing yarns, fibres, or filaments
face	The correct or better-looking side of a fabric
fancy yarns (novelty yarns)	A yarn produced for a special effect. Novelty yarns are usually uneven in size, varied in colour, or modified in appearance by the presence of irregularities deliberately produced during their formation. In singles yarns, the irregularities may be caused by inclusion of knots, loops, curls, and the like. In plied yarns, the irregularities may be effected by variable delivery of one or more yarn components or by twisting together dissimilar singles yarns
felt	1. A nonwoven sheet of matted material of wool, hair, or fur, sometimes in combination with certain manufactured fibers, made by a combination of mechanical and chemical action, pressure, moisture, and heat. 2. a woven fabric generally made from wool, but occasionally from cotton or certain manufactured fibers, that is heavily shrunk and fulled, making it almost impossible to distinguish the
felting	The process of exposing wool fibers alone or in combination with other fibers to mechanical and chemical action, pressure, moisture, and heat so that they tangle, shrink, and mat to form a compact material
fibre	A unit of matter, either natural or manufactured, that forms the basic element of fabrics and other textile structures
filament	Fibre of an indefinite or extreme length such as found naturally in silk
finishing	All the processes through which fabric is passed after bleaching, dyeing, or printing in preparation for the market or use. Finishing includes such operations as heat-setting, napping, embossing, pressing, calendering, and the application of chemicals that change the character of the fabric. The term finishing is also sometimes used to refer collectively to all processing operations above, including bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
flame resistant	A term used to describe a material that burns slowly or is selfextinguishing after removal of an external source of ignition. A fabric or yarn can be flame resistance because of the innate properties of the fiber, the twist level of the yarn, the fabric construction, or the presence of flame retardants, or because of a combination
flat-knit fabric	1. A fabric made on a flat-knitting machine, as distinguished from tubular fabrics made on a circular-knitting machine. While tricot and milanese warp-knit fabrics (non-run) are knit in flat form, the trade uses the term flat-knit fabric to refer to weft-knits fabrics made on a flat machine, rather than warp-knit fabrics. 2. A term used in the underwear trade for plain stitch fabrics made on a circular-knitting machine. These fabrics have a flat surface and are often called flat-knit fabrics to differentiate them from ribbed-knit or Swiss rib fabrics. In this case, the term refers to the texture, not the type of machine on which the fabric was knit.
flat-knitting machine	A weft-knitting machine with needles arranged in a straight line in a flat plate called the bed. The yarn travels alternately back and forth, and the fabric may be shaped or varied in width, as desired, during the knitting process. Lengthwise edges are selvages. Flat-knitting machines may be divided into two types: latch-needle machines for sweaters, scarves, and similar articles and fine spring-needle machines for full-fashioned hosiery.
flexibility	1. The ability to be flexed or bowed repeatedly without rupturing. 2. A term relating to the hand of fabric, referring to ease of bending and ranging from pliable (high) to stiff (low).
float	1. The portion of a warp or filling yarn that extends over two or more adjacent filling picks or warp ends in weaving for the purpose of forming certain designs. 2. In a knit fabric, a portion of yarn that extends for some length without being knitted in. 3. A fabric defect consisting of an end lying or floating on the cloth surface instead of being woven in properly. Floats are usually caused by slubs, knot-tails, knots, or fly waste, or sometimes by ends being drawn in heddle eyes incorrectly or being twisted around heddle wires.
full-fashioned	A term applied to fabrics produced on a flat-knitting machine, such as hosiery, sweater, and underwear that have been shaped by adding or reducing stitches.
gauge	1. A generic term for various measurement instruments such as pressure or thickness gauges. 2. The number of needles per given distance in a knitting machine. 3. The thickness of the knitting needle in the shank and the hook. 4. The number of wales per inch in a knit fabric. 5. On spinning or twisting frames, the distance from the center of one spindle to the center of the next spindle in the same row.
geotextiles	Manufactured fiber products made into fabrics of various constructions for use in a wide variety of civil engineering applications including several described below.
hand (handle)	The tactile qualities of a fabric, e.g., softness, firmness, elasticity, fineness, resilience, and other qualities perceived by touch
interlock knit	To produce an interlock knit, long and short needles are arranged alternately in both the dial and cylinder; the needles in the dial and cylinder are also positioned in direct alignment. When the long and short needles knit in alternate feeds in both needle housings, a fabric with a type of cross 1 x 1 rib effect is produced.
interlooping	A method of uniting knit fabrics by joining two courses of loops
interweaving	The method or process of interlacing two yarns of similar materials so that they cross each other at right angles to produce woven fabric
jack	1. A blade having high and/or low butts used to actuate the movement of latch knitting needles. 2. Part of a dobby head designed to serve as a lever in the operation of the harness of a loom.
jersey	1. A circular-knit or flat-knit fabric made with a plain stitch in which the loops intermesh in only one direction. As a result, the appearance of the face and the back of a jersey fabric is wholly different. 2. A tricot fabric made with a simple stitch, characterized by excellent drape and wrinkle recovery properties
knitting	A method of constructing fabric by interlocking series of loops of one or more yarns
warp knitting	A type of knitting in which the yarns generally run lengthwise in the fabric. The yarns are prepared as warps on beams with one or more yarns for each needle. Examples of this type of knitting are tricot, milanese, and raschel knitting. Milanese Knitting: A type of run-resistant warp knitting with a diagonal rib effect using several sets of yarns. Raschel Knitting: A versatile type of warp knitting made in plain and Jacquard patterns; the latter can be made with intricate eyelet and lacy patterns and is often used for underwear fabrics. Raschel fabrics are coarser than other warp-knit fabrics, but a wide range of fabrics can be made. Raschel knitting machines have one or two sets of latch needles and up to thirty sets of guides. Tricot Knitting: A run-resistant type of warp knitting in which either single or double sets of yarn are used. (Also see TRICOT.)
weft knitting	A common type of knitting, in which one continuous thread runs crosswise in the fabric making all of the loops in one course. Weft knitting types are circular and flat knitting. Circular Knitting: The fabric is produced on the knitting machine in the form of a tube, the threads running continuously around the fabric. Flat Knitting: The fabric is produced on the knitting machine in flat form, the threads alternating back and forth across the fabric. The fabric can be given shape in the knitting process by increasing or decreasing loops. Full-fashioned garments are made on a flat knitting machine.
laminated fabric	1. Fabric composed of a high-strength reinforcing scrim or base fabric between two plies of flexible thermoplastic film. Usually open scrims are used to permit the polymer to flow through the interstices and bond during calendering. 2. See BONDED FABRIC
latch needle	One of the two types of knitting machine needles. The latch needle has a small terminal hook with a latch that pivots automatically in knitting to close the hook. The fabric loop is cast off. The latch then opens, allowing a new loop to be formed by the hook, and loop-forming and casting-off proceed simultaneously.
linen	Cellulosic fibers derived from the stem of the flax plant or a fabric made from these fibers. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous that cotton; they yield cool, absorbent fabrics that wrinkle easily. Fabrics with linen-like texture and coolness but with good wrinkle resistance can be produced from manufactured fibers and blends.
loom	A machine for weaving fabric by interlacing a series of vertical, parallel threads (the warp) with a series of horizontal, parallel threads (the filling). The warp yarns from a beam pass through the heddles and reed, and the filling is shot through the “shed” of warp threads by means of a shuttle or other device and is settled in place by the reed and lay. The woven fabric is then wound on a cloth beam. The primary distinction between different types of looms is the manner of filling insertion.
luster	The quality of shining with reflected light. With reference to textile materials, the term is frequently associated with the adjectives bright or dull to distinguish between varieties of manufactured fibers.
man-made fibers	A class name for various fibers (including filaments) produced from fiber-forming substances which may be: (1) polymers synthesized from chemical compounds, e.g., acrylic, nylon, polyester, polyethylene, polyurethane, and polyvinyl fibers; (2) modified or transformed natural polymers, e.g., alginic and cellulose-based fibers such as acetates and rayons; and (3) minerals, e.g., glasses. The term manufactured usually refers to all chemically produced fibers to distinguish them from the truly natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, flax, etc.
miss stitch	A knitting construction formed when the needle holds the old loop and does not receive new yarn. It connects two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wales. Also known as a float-stitch.
nap	A downy surface given to a cloth when part of the fiber is raised from the basic structure
natural fiber	A class name for various genera of fibers (including filaments) of: (1) animal (i.e., silk and wool); (2) mineral (i.e., asbestos); or (3) vegetable origin (i.e., cotton, flax, jute, and ramie).
needle	1. A thin, metal device, usually with an eye at one end for inserting the thread, used in sewing to transport the thread. 2. The portion of a knitting machine used for intermeshing the loops. Several types of knitting needles are available. 3. In nonwovens manufacture, a barbed metal device used for punching the web’s own fibers vertically through the web.
needle bed	Flat metal plate with slots at regular intervals in which the knitting needles slide on the knitting machine.
nonwoven fabric	An assembly of textile fibers held together by mechanical interlocking in a random web or mat, by fusing of the fibers (in the case of thermoplastic fibers), or by bonding with a cementing medium such as starch, glue, casein, rubber, latex, or one of the cellulose derivatives or synthetic resins. Initially, the fibers may be oriented in one direction or may be deposited in a random manner. This web or sheet of fibers is bonded together by one of the methods described above. Nonwoven fabrics are used for expendable items such as hospitable sheets, napkins, diapers, wiping cloths, as the base material for coated fabrics, and in a variety of other applications. They can also be used for semi-disposable items and for permanent items such as interlinings.
novelty yarn	A yarn produced for a special effect. Novelty yarns are usually uneven in size, varied in color, or modified in appearance by the presence of irregularities deliberately produced during their formation. In singles yarns, the irregularities may be caused by inclusion of knots, loops, curls, slubs, and the like. In plied yarns, the irregularities may be effected by variable delivery of one or more yarn components or by twisting together dissimilar singles yarns. Nub and slub are examples of novelty yarns.
pattern	1. An arrangement of form; a design or decoration such as the design of woven or printed fabrics. 2. A model, guide, or plan used in making things, such as a garment pattern.
ply	1. The number of singles yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn, or the number of plied yarns twisted together to form cord. 2. An individual yarn in a plied yarn or cord. 3. One of a number of layers of fabric. 4. The number of layers of fabric, as in a shirt collar, or of cord in a tire.
plying	Twisting together two or more singles yarns or ply yarns to form, respectively, ply yarn or cord.
purl	1. A knitting stitch that results in horizontal ridges across the fabric. It is made by drawing alternate courses through each side of the fabric. 2. A picot or small loop that edges needlework, lace, or ribbon. Sometimes spelled pearl. 3. Coiled gold or silver thread used for embroidery.
rib knit	A double-knit fabric in which the wales or vertical rows of stitches intermesh alternately on the face and the back. In other words, odd wales intermesh on one side of the cloth and even wales on the other. Rib knit fabrics of this type have good elasticity, especially in the width.
roving	1. In spun yarn production, an intermediate state between sliver and yarn. Roving is a condensed sliver that has been drafted, twisted, doubled, and redoubled. The product of the first roving operation is sometimes called slubbing. 2. The operation of producing roving. 3. In the manufacture of composites, continuous strands of parallel filaments.
seamless	A term that describes a tubular knit fabric without seams, e.g., seamless hosiery.
selvage (selvedge)	The narrow edge of woven fabric that runs parallel to the warp. It is made with stronger yarns in a tighter construction than the body of the fabric to prevent raveling. A fast selvage encloses all or part of the picks, and a selvage is not fast when the filling threads are cut at the fabric edge after every pick.
shrinkage	Widthwise or lengthwise contraction of a fiber, yarn, or fabric, usually after wetting a redrying or on exposure to elevated temperature
silk fibre	A fine, strong, continuous filament produced by the larva of certain insects, especially the silkworm, when constructing its cocoons
sliver	A continuous strand of loosely assembled fibres without twist. Sliver is delivered by the card, the comber, or the drawing frame. The production of sliver is the first step in the textile operation that brings staple fibre into a form that can be drawn (or reduced in bulk) and eventually twisted into a spun yarn
spinneret	A metal disc containing numerous minute holes used in manufactured fiber extrusion. The spinning solution or melted polymer is forced through the holes to form the fiber filaments.
spinning	The process or processes used in the production of single yarns or of fabrics generated directly from polymer
spring-bearded needle (bearded needle)	A knitting machine needle with a long, flexible hook, or beard, that allows the hook to be closed by an action known as pressing so that the loops can be cast off. The hook springs back to its original position when the presser bar is removed.
staple fibres	Natural fibers or cut lengths from filaments. The staple length of natural fibers varies from less than 1 inch as with some cotton fibers to several feet for some hard fibbers. The term staple (fiber) is used in the textile industry to distinguish natural or cut length manufactured fibers from filament
strand	1. A single fiber, filament, or monofilament. 2. An ordered assemblage of textile fibers having a high ratio of length to diameter and normally used as a unit; includes slivers, roving, single yarns, plies yarns, cords, braids, ropes, etc.
stripping	1. A chemical process for removing color from dyed cloth by the use of various chemicals. Stripping is done when the color is unsatisfactory and the fabric is to be redyed. 2. The physical process of removing fiber that in embedded in the clothing of a card.
textile	Originally, a woven fabric; now applied generally to any one of the following: 1. staple fibers and filaments suitable for conversion to or use as yarns, or for the preparation of woven, knit, or nonwoven fabrics. 2. Yarns made from natural or manufactured fibers. 3. Fabrics and other manufactured products made from fibers as defined above and from yarns. 4. garments and other articles fabricated from fibers, yarns, or fabrics when the products retain the characteristic flexibility and drape of the original fabrics
texture	A term describing the surface effect of a fabric, such as dull, lustrous, woolly, stiff, soft, fine, coarse, open, or closely woven; the structural quality of a fabric
textured yarns	Yarns that develop stretch and bulk on subsequent processing. When woven or knitted into fabric, the cover, hand, and other aesthetics of the finished fabric better resemble the properties of a fabric constructed from spun yarn.
thread	1. A slender, strong strand or cord, especially one designed for sewing or other needlework. Most threads are made by plying and twisting yarns. 2. A general term for yarns used in weaving and knitting
tricot	A generic term for the most common type of warp-knit fabric. It has fine wales on the face and coursewise ribs on the back. It can be made in a plain jersey construction or in meshes, stripes, and many other designs. Tricot is usually made of triacetate, acetate, polyester, nylon, or rayon.
tuck stitch	A knitting stitch made when a needle receives a new yarn without losing its old loop
twist	The number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn or other textile strand. Twist is expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpcm).
twisting	1. The process of combining filaments into yarn by twisting them together or combining two or more parallel singles yarns (spun or filament) into plied yarns or cords. Cables are made by twisting plied yarns or cords. Twisting is also employed to increase strength, smoothness, and uniformity, or to obtain novelty effects in yarn. 2. A very high level of twist is added to single or plied yarns to make crepe yarns. This operation generally is called creping or throwing. 3. The process of adding twist to a filament yarn to hold the filaments together for ease in subsequent textile processing, etc.
V-bed flat knitting machine	A latch-needle weft-knitting machine with two needlebeds at a 90° angle to each other in the form of an inverted V. Each needlebed is at a 45° angle to the horizontal. These machines are used primarily to produce collars, sleeves, sweater strips, and rib trims.
vegetable fiber	A textile fiber of vegetable origin, such as cotton, kapok, jute, ramie, and flax.
wale	1. In knit fabrics, a column of loops lying lengthwise in the fabric. The number of wales per inch is a measure of the fineness of the fabric. 2. In woven fabrics, one of a series of ribs, cords, etc., running either warpwise or fillingwise.
warp	1. The set of yarn in all woven fabrics, that runs lengthwise and parallel to the selvage and is interwoven with the filling. 2. The sheet of yarns wound together on a beam for the purpose of weaving or warp knitting.
warp-knit fabric	A fabric that is knit with the yarns running lengthwise, e.g., tricot, milanese, and Raschel.
weaving	The method or process of interlacing two yarns of similar materials so that they cross each other at right angles to produce woven fabric. The warp yarns, or ends, run lengthwise in the fabric, and the filling threads (weft), or picks, run from side to side. Weaving can be done on a power or handloom or by several hand methods.
worsted	A general term applied to fabrics and yarns from combed wool and wool blends. Worsted yarn is smooth-surfaced, and spun from evenly combed long staple. Worsted fabric is made from worsted yarns and is tightly woven with a smooth, hard surface, Gabardine and serge are examples of worsted fabrics.
woven fabric	Generally used to refer to fabric composed of two sets of yarns, warp and filling, that is formed weaving, which is the interlacing of these sets of yarns. However, there are woven fabrics in which three sets of yarn are used to give a triaxial weave. In two-dimensional wovens, there may be two or more warps and fillings in a fabric, depending on the complexity of the construction. The manner in which the two sets of yarns are interlaced determines the weave. By using various combinations of the three basic weaves, plain, twill, and satin, it is possible to produce an almost unlimited variety of constructions. Other effects may be obtained by varying the type of yarns, filament or spun, and the fiber types, twist levels, etc.
wrinkle resistance	That property of a fabric that enables it to resist the formation of wrinkles when subjected to a folding deformation. Wrinkle resistance in a fabric is a desirable attribute, but it is not easily measured quantitatively. Wrinkle resistance varies from quite low in many fabrics to very high in resilient fabrics. In order to form a wrinkle, a fabric’s wrinkle resistance must be overcome. The fabric may, however, produce strains and store potential energy that can become evident as wrinkle recovery under suitable conditions.
yarn	a generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric
yarn production	the process of converting fiber into yarn

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William Lee inventor of the Knitting Frame	\|	English-Ukrainian Vocabulary

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