Shoe сonstruction

Shoe construction is essentially the manner in which the sole is attached to the upper. This is done by sewing, cementing, heat molding, nails or tacks. Several different factors will determine the type of construction the manufacturer will choose for a particular style. Cost, appearance and weight are the three main factors that determine the type of construction that will be used.

The cementing process is the process used in well over half the shoes built today. First introduced in 1928 this type of shoe construction offers a sturdy, light weigh and cost effective way to build shoes. The process is actually quite simple. The outsole is attached to the insole and underflaps of the upper by bonding cement. Between the outsole and insole is a layer of filler material (usually ground cork) to create the flat foot bed.

The Goodyear welt process has been used for centuries. It takes its name from the inventor who came up with the original hand sewn method and became very popular with the invention of the sole-stitching machine. It is regarded as the king of shoe construction because of its structural integrity and craftsmanship. It is used today in better grade dress shoes. The welt is a flat narrow strip of leather laid over the top edge of the outsole. A four-layer sandwich is created: outsole, welt, insole and underflaps of the upper. These are stitched together for a very sturdy type of shoe construction. The benefit of a dress shoe which is made using this type is that the system allows for a constant flow of air to flow through the shoe, which keeps the shoes ventilated, durable and strong. Besides the Goodyear welt process is easily re-soled.

The stitchdown process is one of the oldest and simplest methods of shoe construction. In its basic form it consists of stitching the underflaps of the upper to the sole. This is referred to as a single-sole stitchdown and needs no insole. It is an easy and inexpensive type of shoe construction.

The genuine moccasin construction is the oldest form of shoe construction and is still used today. A true moccasin construction simply wraps the upper around the foot or last and is sewn together at the seam created under the foot or last. A machine made moccasin will attach a sole to the underflaps of the upper, usually cemented.

There are two types of heat-seal construction: vulcanized and injection-molded. Vulcanized is the process where the rubber sole and heel as one unit are heat-molded to the upper. The injection-molded process is the same except that the sole and heel until is thermoplastic instead of rubbed. The thermoplastic is injected into a mold and heat sealed to the upper. Both methods make for very sturdy and long wearing footwear.

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