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Methods of shoe construction

There are many ways to attach the sole to the upper but commercially only a few methods are preferred. Shoes were traditionally made by molding leather to a wooden last. Modern technology has introduced many new materials and mechanized much of the manufacture. Remarkable as it may seem the manufacture of shoes remains fairly labour intensive. No matter the type of construction the first stage in construction is to attach the insole to the undersurface of the last. Two main operations follow: lasting and bottoming. Lasting describes the upper sections are shaped to the last and insole. Lasting is followed by bottoming, where the sole is attached to the upper. The process of bottoming will determine price, quality and performance of the shoe.

Cement or “stuck on” (UK) construction is used for lightweight and flexible footwear, where the outsole is stuck to the upper by an adhesive. Bonwelt is a variation with its distinguishing feature being a strip of welting attached by stitching or cementing to the top edge of the insole. The shoe is then flat lasted. This is not a true welt construction wherein the welt is attached to the rib of the insole.

Goodyear welt is applied for high quality dress and town shoes with the top section or welt being chain stitched to the upper and insole rib at the point where it curves “under the last”. This is supplemented by a lockstitch outseam bonding the welt and outsole. The outsole is then sewn to the welt around the edge. Goodyear welt creates heavier less flexible footwear.

A cheaper method used to produce lightweight flexible soles for children's shoes and some casual footwear is stitchdown or veldt construction. It describes the upper turned out (flanged) at the edge of the last. This is then stitched to the runner.

Thought to be the oldest shoe construction moccasin consists of a single layer section which forms the insole, vamp and quarters. The piece is molded upwards from the undersurface of the last. An apron is then stitched to the gathered edges of the vamp and the sole is stitched to the base of the shoe. This method is used for flexible fashion footwear. The imitation moccasin has a visual appearance of a moccasin but doesn't have the wrap around construction of the genuine moccasin. In molded methods the lasted upper is placed in a mould and the sole formed around it by injecting liquid synthetic soling material (PVC, urethane). Alternatively, the sole may be vulcanized by converting uncured rubber into a stable compound by heat and pressure. When the materials in the moulds cool the sole - upper bonding is complete. These methods combine the upper permanently into the sole and such shoes cannot therefore be repaired easily. Moulded methods can be used to make most types of footwear.

Force lasting or the Strobel-stitched (sewn in sock) method has evolved from sport shoes but is increasingly used in other footwear. Sewn in sock method describes one of many force lasting techniques. The upper is sewn directly to a sock by means of an overlooking machine (Strobel stitcher). The upper is then pulled (force lasted) onto a last or moulding foot. Unit soles with raised walls or moulded soles are attached to completely cover the seam. This technique is sometimes known as the Califomian process or slip lasting.

IV. Answer the questions:

1. How was footwear traditionally made?
2. What is the first stage in shoe construction?
3. What process is called “lasting”?
4. What is bottoming?
5. What method is used for lightweight footwear?
6. What method is applied for high quality dress shoes?
7. What method of shoe construction is used to produce children’s shoes?
8. Which method of shoe construction is the oldest one?
9. In what method is vulcanization of the sole applied?
10. What technique is known as the Californian process?

V. Complete the sentences with the words from the text:

1. There are many ways to attach … .

2. Shoes were traditionally made by … .

3. The first stage in construction is … .

4. … describes the upper section are shaped to the last and insole.

5. The process of bottoming will determine … .

VI. Find the English equivalents to the words:

трудомісткий, устілка, клейовий метод, рантовий метод, дитяче взуття, модельне взуття, ремонтувати, процес формування, взуття для повсякденного носіння, підметка.

VII. Make up sentences with the terms:

to be preferred, to mould, labour intensive, lightweight and flexible footwear, town shoes, children’s shoes, an apron, synthetic material, sport shoes

VIII. Give definitions to the words:

lasting, bottoming, cement construction, Goodyear welt, moccasin construction, moulded methods, Californian process

IX. Translate the sentences into English:

1. Існує багато методів прикріплення нижньої частини взуття до верхньої, але переважно використовуються тільки декілька.
2. Першою операцією в процесі конструювання будь-якого взуття є приєднання устілки до сліду колодки.
3. Повсякденне взуття виготовляється клейовим методом, це коли підошва прикріплюється до верха взуття за допомогою клею.
4. Рантово-прошивний метод кріплення застосовується для виготовлення модельного взуття високої якості.
5. Для виготовлення деяких видів дитячого та повсякденного взуття застосовується прошивний або сандальний метод кріплення.
6. Мокасини – це взуття, яке становить конструктивну єдність з устілкою, союзкою та берцями.
7. Формоване взуття важко ремонтувати.
8. Метод формування можна застосовувати для більшості типів взуття.
9. Строчово-клейовий метод є одним з безобтягувальних внутрішніх способів формування заготовок.
10. Верх взуття пришивають до вкладної устілки на машинах з обкидним швом.

X. Speak on the topic using the following words and word-combinations:

to attach the sole to the upper, undersurface of the last, lasting, bottoming, cement construction, an adhesive, high quality dress shoes, stitchdown or veldt construction, moccasin construction, moulded methods, force lasting method

TEXT B

I. Read and remember:

1. a nail – цвях
2. a tack – текс, шпилька, кнопка
3. cost – вартість
4. an appearance – зовнішній вигляд
5. weight – вага
6. sturdy – жорсткий, міцний
7. cork – пробка, корок
8. an underflap – вкладна устілка
9. to wrap – загортати
10. a heat-seal construction – термосклеювання

II. Read the text and define the main idea of it:

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