Manufacture of gloves and handbags

Leather, due to its excellent abrasion and wind resistance, found its use in a great number of leather goods industries. They provide us with footwear, clothing, upholstery for furniture and car seats and accessories, such as gloves, bags, handbags, suitcases and so on.

The manufacture of well-fitting dress gloves requires leather of beautiful quality with special properties such as washability, colour and a high degree of skill in cutting-out in order that the gloves can stretch with the movement of the hand and yet fit well. The leather must possess "run", that is when pulled it must stretch and not spring back when the pull ceases. The skill of the glove cutter lies in getting the degree of stretch in each direction before the final cutting to shape takes place. The stages in glove cutting are as follows: first, damping the leather, then stretching it suitably, next cutting out the "trank", and finally cutting out the actual shapes from the trank, either by hand or by means of a template and knife, or with a die known as a "web".

The method employed for the best gloves is known as "table cutting", each, trank being considered separately in the final cutting.

The next stage is silking or pointing that is making the three stitched ridges on the back of the gloves. Then the stitching together of the various parts follows. After the gloves return from the stitching operation they are placed on metal "hands", ironed and polished. Although vast quantities of woollen and textile gloves are made leather remains the most important material.

The making of leather handbags is much sectionalized. Many types of sewing machines are used, including special models for fancy stitching of various kinds, elasticizing lining pockets and so on. Machines exist for fitting frames on to bags of cheaper types, for backing minors and a few other minor operations.

Flatting processes are necessary to obtain a high finish on lizard and box-calf bags. But the most important machine is the skiving machine. In nearly all leather bags the leather has, at some point or other, to be pared, beveled, thinned or grooved.

Leather for covering frames or other metal parts must be shaved down to paper thickness. Machine will do it in one tenth the time taken by hand. Both hand and machine paring are very skillful operations. The machine is a small one with a revolving cylindrical knife constantly sharpened by an automatic attachment. On an outside bevel, materials are fed on to the knife, which protrudes through an aperture in the bed of the machine for about two inches, by rotating every feed-roll. And the type of cut therefor is controlled by a presser foot adjustable as to angle and height, of which there are many types for different requirements. Almost every type of leather (except of course the thick, heavy varieties used for sole, belting and hardness work) is used for handbags.

IV. Answer the following questions:

What leather goods do you know?
What properties does leather for gloves have to possess?
What does the skill of the glove cutter lie in?
What are the stages in glove cutting?
Does leather remain the most usable material for gloves?
What is the process of leather handbags manufacturing?
What are the main types of machines for handbags manufacturing?
Will machine do the shaving operations quicker than done by hand?
What operations are the most skillful?
What machine is used for paring operation?

V. Complete the sentences with the words from text:

Leather goods industries provide us with … .
The manufacture of … requires leather with special properties.
The method employed for the best gloves is known as … .
… are necessary to obtain a high finishing on lizard and box-calf bags.
Leather for covering frames or other metal parts must … .

VI. Find the English equivalents to the words:

оббивка, якість, стійкість, обробка, пробіг (розтягування), металеві “руки”, підкладка, ящірка, скіс

VII. Make up sentences with the terms:

upholstery, accessories, run, to stretch, to spring down, dress gloves, special properties, to obtain, to make, to feed on

VIII. Give definitions to the words:

gloves, washability, a skill, web, a cutting table, a handbag, a frame, a paring

IX. Translate the sentences into English:

Шкіра, завдяки своїм властивостям, знайшла застосування у виготовленні багатьох речей.
Для виробництва зручних рукавичок потрібна шкіра із особливими властивостями.
Існують слідуючи етапи розкрою рукавичок: зволоження, розтягування, розкроювання рукавичної основи та, нарешті, розкрій визначеної форми з рукавичної основи.
Мистецтво закрійника полягає в тому, щоб отримати достатній ступінь розтягнення в усіх напрямках до остаточного розкрою.
Після розтягнення рукавички переміщають на металеві “руки” для прасування та полірування.
Незважаючи на велику різноманітність матеріалів, що використовуються для виробництва рукавичок, шкіра залишається головним матеріалом.
Шкіра для рукавичок має володіти достатнім ступенем розтягування.
Для виготовлення шкіряних сумок використовується багато типів швейних машин.
Шкіра, якою обтягують каркас та інші металеві частини сумки, має бути зачищена (застругана) до товщини паперу.
Процес виготовлення сумок із шкіри дуже складний.

X. Speak on the topic using the following words and word-combinations:

leather goods, gloves, bags, leather of beautiful quality, special properties, to stretch with the movements of the hand, to stitch together, to iron and polish, leather handbags, sewing machine, frames, a flatting process, a skiving machine, a revolving cylindrical knife

TEXT B

I. Read and remember:

an article – вироб
an attire – наряд, вбрання
finishing touch – остаточний дотик
protective covering – захисне покриття
richly embroidered – вишукано вишитий
a pouch – сумка, мішечок
a purse – гаманець, невеличка дамська сумочка
a compartment – відділення
ample – широкий, достатній
chatelaine – замковий

II. Read the text and define the main idea of it:

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<== попередня сторінка	\|	наступна сторінка ==>
III. Make up a plan of the text.	\|	Some historical facts about women’s gloves and handbags

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