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Hand Stitches

While modern sewers rely on sewing machines for speedy garment construction, there are situations when hand stitching is necessary or preferable. You may need to slipstitch an opening closed in the lining of a vest, or perhaps you like the look of a hand-stitched blind hem. And, you'll also need to sew on buttons.

This is the simplest form of hand stitch. It can be used for gathering, quilting, mending, tucking and seams that do not require much strain.

Basting Stitch

A basting stitch is used to hold two or more pieces of fabric together temporarily, to transfer construction symbols from wrong to right side of fabric and to indicate guide lines. A contrasting thread is used so the basting stitch can be easily identified when permanent stitching is made and the basting is removed. The stitch is a larger version of the running stitch, about ¹/₄ to ¹/₂ inch in length, depending on the weight of the fabric and how securely the pieces of fabric should be held together.

Even basting is used when there will be some strain on the seam. The stitches about 14 inches long are made, even on both sides of fabric.

Uneven basting is used in seams where there is little or no strain or as a guide line for stitching. Long stitches on one side of fabric and short stitches are to be taken on other side.

Diagonal basting is used to hold several layers of fabric securely together and stitched through the fabric at right angles to the fabric edge. This gives a diagonal stitch on the upper side and a short horizontal stitch on the underside. It is used to hold interfacings, linings and facings in place during fittings.

Back-Stitch

Back-stitching is used to stitch a seam securely or permanently. It looks like machine-stitching on the right side, but stitches overlap on the wrong side.

Slip-Stitch

The slip-stitch is used when stitching should not show, but it isn't very strong. It differs from the slip-basting stitch in the length of the stitches.

Hemming Stitch

A slanting stitch which shows on the wrong side and is stronger than the slip-stitch. Used for all types of hemming.

Catch-Stitch is a fairly loose but secure stitch used to hold raw edges of facings and interfacings.

Invisible Stitch and is sometimes called the French hemming stitch. This stitch is used for hems and for attaching facings and interfacings in tailoring.

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