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Sewing a seam

A seam is row of stitching that holds two or more layers of fabric together. Seams shape fabric to fit your body. The use of certain methods to make seams can add expensive detailing to the pattern design.

To begin the operation it is necessary to thread your machine. Machine stitches are divided into two types - straight and zigzag. The straight-needle machine makes only straight stitches, unless a special attachment is used; whereas the zigzag machine can create both.

Regulation Stitch. This is the stitch used for permanent stitching such as seams, darts and tucks. The length and tension of the stitch may vary according to the fabric used. On most medium-weight fabrics, the regulation stitch is about 12 stitches to the inch; sheers require a finer stitch (16 to the inch); heavy or coarse fabrics generally take 8 to 10 stitches to the inch

Basting Stitch. Basting stitches are used for temporary joining of sections or details which may require reworking when the garment is fitted or for marking. The longest stitch on the machine (6 to 8 per inch) and a contrasting thread should be used so that the markings and bastings are easily seen and easily removed. The same tension on the machine is used as you do for permanent stitching on the fabric. To remove basting, the needle thread should be clipped every few inches and pulled out the bobbin thread using small, sharp-pointed scissors.

Stitching for Gathering. Sections which require easing or gathering should be stitched with a long stitch (6 to 10 to the inch) in matching color thread. Long threads at the ends of the stitching are to be left. Threads at one end around a pin have to be anchored, then the bobbin thread at the other end is picked up and gently drawn up to form the amount of easing or gathering needed. The shorter stitch (10 to the inch) will form finer easing or gathering; the longer (6 to the inch) will create fuller easing or gathering. Sometimes a heavier thread is used on the bobbin.

Stitching for Reinforcement. Areas where there is strain or a need for reinforcement, such as points of collars, cuffs, gussets, pointed faced openings of necklines, underarm seam of kimono sleeves, will need a finer, tighter stitch, usually 16 to 20 stitches to the inch.

Zigzag Stitch. Zigzag machines are capable of making the zigzag stitch but a straight-needle machine will require a special zigzag attachment. The small zigzag stitch may be used to stitch seams in jersey and loosely woven fabric with bias seams, giving greater elasticity which helps prevent seam splitting.

Aside from the standard straight-stitch seam there are several other stitches that are appropriate for various fabrics and situations. Whenever you sew with knits, for example, you need a seam that will stretch with the fabric. To prevent raveling of woven fabrics, seam allowance edges must be finished. The cut edge of knit fabrics does not ravel, but they often curl. To minimize this problem, the seam allowances are usually finished together and pressed to one side.

Double-stitched seam is appropriate for fabrics with minimal stretch or for seams sewn in the vertical direction on moderate stretch knits.

Narrow zigzag seam is appropriate for very stretchy knits.

Some stitch styles are a pattern of zigzag and straight stitches that stitch and finish the seam in one pass.

III Answer the questions:

1. What is a seam?

2. What is a function and use of seams?

3. What kinds of stitches can a machine make?

4. What type of stitches is used for making darts and tucks?

5. What is a basting stitch used for?

6. What areas need stitching for reinforcement?

7. When are zigzag stitches used?

8. What should one do to prevent raveling?

9. What types of machine stitches do you know?

10. What kinds of them do you use most of all?

IV Complete the sentences with the words from the text:

1. … holds two or more pieces of fabric.

2. … can create both kinds of stitches.

3. Regulation stitch is used for …

4. Basting stitch may …

5. It’s easy to remove … with the help of …

6. A straight-needle machine can’t form … so it’ll require …

V Find the English equivalents to the words:

Приладдя, створювати, потребувати (вимагати), постійний, тимчасовий, тонкіший, край, в’язана тканина, розтягуватись, включати (об’єднувати)

VI Make up sentences with the terms:

To make a seam, a special attachment, permanent stitching, temporary joining, a contrasting thread, to remove, basting, to ravel, an edge.

VII Give definitions to the words:

A seam, to baste, an attachment, stitching, a neckline, a gusset

VIII Translate the sentences into English:

1. Шви використовуються не тільки для з’єднання декількох кусків тканини, але й для оздоблення та надання привабливого вигляду.

2. Шви можуть бути зроблені на машинці або вручну.

3. Кожен з видів стібків має свої функції та техніку створення.

4. Обметувальні стібки легко видалити, тому що вони, зазвичай, тимчасові і не закріплюються.

5. Деякі частини виробу потребують посилення, отже відповідних швів.

6. Щоб зробити шви-зигзаг на прямоголковій машині, потрібно спеціальне приладдя.

7. Шви-зигзаг також використовують, щоб запобігти торочення країв тканини.

8. Вузький шов-зигзаг саме краще підходить до сильно еластичних тканин.

9. Деякі машинки формують і закріплюють шви за один прохід.

IX Speak on the topic using the following words and word-combinations:

To make a seam, types of stitches, to be used for, a regulation stitch, a basting stitch, stitching for gathering, stitching for reinforcement, a zigzag stitch

TEXT B

I Read and remember:

1. to rely on – покладатися

2. a hand-stitched blind hem – вручну закріплена невидима підрубка

3. quilting – підбивка

4. mending – штопання

5. tucking – застрочування

6. to baste – наметування

7. slanting – косий

8. to overlap – частково покривати, заходити один за одний

II Read the text and define the main idea of it:

Читайте також:

1. Is It Worth Sewing My Own Clothes?
2. Sewing garments
3. Sewing supplies
4. Shoe-sewing machines
5. The Sewing Machine
6. The Sewing Machine’s Early History
7. VII Name and translate all essential parts of the sewing machine.

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