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FROM THE HISTORY OF THE WESTERN BOOT

Although shoemaking has been an established art for at least 3500 years, any review of the history of the cowboy boot must begin somewhere. We could start on the great plains of North America in the latter half of the 19th century; according to some theories we could even start with the conquistadors in the 17th century.

The earliest information we have of the high heel being used for riding, describes invading Mongol tribes men wearing bright red wooden heels. Mongols were consummate horsemen and their easy victories left a mark on European society. Since owning and caring for a horse requires some wealth and since being horseback places a person physically above the common man, riders and consequently, high heels became associated with nobility. To this day, we say well-heeled to describe someone who is wealthy or aristocratic.

The Northampton museum of England has one of; the largest collections of historical footwear in the world and in these exhibits can be found the true story of the western boot. Throughout the 17th and 18lh century exhibits are examples of riding boots which have high tops, pointed toes and 2 "Stacked heels". Boots were made upon straight lasts that were neither left nor right.

In 1790 paired lasts were reintroduced mostly as a response to lower heel heights. And as the new century began, boots became very fashionable, even for women. It 1815, Arthur Wellsley, First Duke of Wellington, defeated Napoleon at Waterloo. In the vale of his victory Wellington boots became the style. The major difference in these previous styles was that the heels were low cut and the tops were only half high. At Northampton there is a pair of dress Wellingtons made in 1817. They are a four piece boot - vamp, counter cover, front and back tops - with beaded side seams (the same layout as a modem cowboy boot); The vamps and counter covers are black patent leather, the tops are maroon with) an olive top binding and trim and they have a fancy decorative stitch pattern on the front of the leg.

During after the Civil War (1850's-1880's) various designs were tested from leg heights, to methods of attaching soles, to different types and origins of leather. Many advances in construction and materials were introduced by the military. After much experimentation, an oak-tanned Spanish leather which was heavily waxed on the flesh side became the standard. And it was from this waxed calf that most of the early cowboy boots were constructed as well.

By 1900 the four piece boot had become the dominant form. Styles did change with the times. Heights of heel and top have come and gone. Lace-up was common on the American frontier.

 


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