Patterns

Patterns are "blueprints" for cutting and stitching clothing and accessories.

The bust or chest, waist, and hip measurements are used to determine pattern size. These three measurements are horizontal, representing body circumference or size. If one body measurement is usually large or small the pattern should be altered to fit this particular area.

Pattern figure type is related to the body's vertical measurements. Figure type refers to body build and height.

Pattern size is determined by exact body measurements. The garment made from a pattern, however, is larger than the body measurements. A small amount of extra room is added so a person can move and breathe freely in the clothes. Ease is the name given to the extra room built into a pattern for wearing comfort. After adding the minimum ease for comfort, style ease may be added. This is the amount of easy used in a design to give it a fitted or a loose and flowing appearance.

Pattern catalogues are of great help for dress-makers. All needed information can be found in the pattern catalogue. You will need to know the brand name, the pattern number, the pattern size, and sometimes, the pattern figure type. The name of the pattern company or brand name is on the corner of the pattern book. The four-digit number is the pattern style number. The available sizes are shown on the fabric yardage chart.

There is a wealth of information on the pattern envelope. The front of the envelope shows front views of the styles included in the pattern. Drawings show all seams, darts, and details, but it is hard to estimate the amount of fullness. For an idea of the true fullness, a photograph in the large catalogue may be more helpful.

The information on the front of the pattern envelope includes the prices, size, figure type, brand name, style number and style choices. There are some special features of the pattern. There may be an embroidery transfer, a sewing lesson, a designer style, a knit fabric requirement, or a quick or easy-to-sew design.

The back views, style description, and hemline widths on the envelope back also help you select a pattern. In addition the envelope back is your shopping guide or list. Suitable fabrics are suggested for the design. All yardage requirements for fabrics and supplies are listed. Special information, such as suitability for plaids or napped fabrics, is printed on the back of the pattern envelope.

The pattern guide sheets explain how to cut out the pattern and sew the pieces together.

Today, pattern pieces are well marked to help you identify, layout, cut, mark, and sew each piece. Some early pattern had no printed markings.

Pattern symbols tell you where to lengthen and shorten the pattern. A double line may be used to indicate the best place for lengthening or shortening. A note at the hemline may also provide this information. Pattern symbols also guide you in matching and stitching the pieces together. Matching symbols include notches, dots, squares, and triangles. Location guidelines may indicate the center front, elastic casing, pocket placement, buttonhole placement, trim placement, hem fold, and pleat fold and stitching lines.

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