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LEATHER TYPES

To be a good specialist in footwear design and manufacture one should be acquainted with leather types. It will help him/her to choose the proper leather for certain leather goods.

In general, leather is sold in three forms:

Full-Grain leather or Top-Grain is referring to the upper section of a hide that contains the epidermis or skin layer. Only the hair has been removed from the epidermis. The grain remains in its natural state which will allow the best fiber strength, resulting in greater durability. The natural grain also has natural breathability, resulting in greater comfort for clothing. The natural Full-Grain surface will wear better than other leather. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a natural "Patina" and grow more beautiful over time. The finest leather furniture and footwear are made from Full-Grain leather. For these reasons only the best raw hide are used in order to create Full-Grain or Top-Grain leather. Full grain leathers can mainly be sold as two finish types: aniline and semi-aniline.

Corrected-Grain leather is any Top-Grain leather that has had its surfaces sanded or buffed in order to remove any imperfection on the surface due to insect bites, healed scars or brands. The hides used to create corrected leather are hides of inferior quality that do not meet the high standards for use in creating aniline or semi-aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected and an artificial grain applied. Most Correct leather is used to make Pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented.

Split leather is leather that is created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the Top-Grain of the raw hide has been separated from the hide. During the splitting operation the grain and drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split into a middle split and a flesh split. In very thick hides the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain. Splits can be also used to create Suede. The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is "fuzzy" on both sides. Suede is less durable than top-grain. Suede is cheaper because many pieces of suede can be split from a single thickness of hide, whereas only one piece of top-grain can be made. However, manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede appear to be full-grain. For example, in one operation, glue is mixed with one side of the suede, which is then pressed through rollers; these flatten and even out one side of the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain. A reversed suede is a grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface.

IV. Answer the questions:

1. How many forms is leather sold in?

2. What will develop a natural “patina” and grow more beautiful over time?

3. What kind of leather are the finest leather furniture and footwear made from?

4. What two main types can full-grain leather be sold in?

5. Is corrected grain leather any top-grain one?

6. Why are top-grain leather surfaces sanded or buffed?

7. What kind of leather is created from fibrous part of hide?

8. What material can be used to create suede?

9. What splits are the strongest suedes usually made from?

10. What is a reversed suede?

V. Complete the sentences with the words from the text:

1. Only the hair has been removed from the … .

2. The best raw hides are used in order to create full-grain … .

3. The … are corrected and an artificial grain applied.

4. The … can be further split into a middle split and a flesh split.

5. Splits can be also used to create … .

VI. Find the English equivalents to the words:

типи шкіри, поверхня, шліфувати, меблі, погана якість, дефект, тавро, товщина, зворотна замша, видима поверхня

VII. Make up sentences with the terms:

an epidermis, the hair, durability, a surface, artificial grain, to split, glue, suede, technique, product

VIII. Give definitions to the words:

an upper section of a hide, an epidermis, breathability, an imperfection, full-grain leather, corrected-grain leather, a split, a suede, a technique, an article

IX. Translate the sentences into English:

1. Обізнаність із видами шкіри допоможе стати спеціалістом у виробництві виробів із шкіри.

2. Найкраща шкіра для виробництва взуття та меблів виготовлюється із не шліфованого спілка.

3. Тільки кращі шкури можна використовувати для виробництва не шліфованої шкіри.

4. Тільки шкіра високої якості може бути пофарбована аніліновою фарбою без покриття плівкою.

5. Шкура тварини, яка має недоліки (дефекти) підлягає шліфуванню та поліруванню.

6. Штучне покриття використовується після виправлення недоліків.

7. Після двоїння шкіри ми отримуємо шкіру високої якості та спілок.

8. Спілок використовується для вироблення замши.

9. Шкіра виготовлена із не шліфованої шкіри більш зносостійка ніж замша.

10. Замша дешевше тому, що її можна виготовляти із різних шматочків спілка.

X. Speak on the topic using the following words and word-combinations:

to be referring to, natural state, the best fibre strength, the finest leather furniture and footwear, to have surfaces sanded or buffed, interior quality, pigmented leather, split leather, to separate from hide, to create suede, visible surface

TEXT B

1. Read and remember:

1. buckskin – оленяча шкіра

2. patent leather – лакована шкіра

3. suede-like hide – схожий на замшу

4. to rot – гнити

5. coating – покриття

6. stingray - електричний скат

7. trimming – оздоблення

8. indigenous – тубільний, місцевий

9. slink – шкура ненародженого теляти

10. bicast leather – штучна шкіра

II. Read the text and define the main idea of it:

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